The Grand Waterfalls and Mountains of Glencoe Adventure March 2026 - Part One: The Waterfall Quest

Chasing the Glencoe Five (Well, Four): A Masterclass in Mud, Magic, and Mental Healing

They say the best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry, and in my case, "men" includes a red Suzuki Swift named Dezzy Bee and a fleet of drones with a mind of their own.

I’d planned for the Isle of Skye, but the weather gods had other ideas. Instead, I took a leaf out of Karl Griffin’s book (from the Glencoe Photography YouTube channel) and decided to tackle his "Top 5 Waterfalls in Glencoe." I ended up with four, a pair of very wet "Welly Bootuns," and a mental massage that I didn't realise I desperately needed.

04:45 AM: The Early Bird Gets the Snow-Caps

The alarm went off at 4:00 AM - a time that should be illegal. By 4:45 AM, Dezzy Bee was humming North. The first real thrill came just before Lochan na h-Achlaise, where I pulled over to capture the snow-capped peaks of Am Monadh Dubh. The crisp morning air gave me a welcome thrill, better than any double espresso; the adventure had officially begun.

Stop 1: The Cauldron Waterfalls (The Boggy Baptism)

My first major stop was the Cauldron Waterfalls near the Kingshouse Hotel. The walk across the moorland is less of a "stroll" and more of a "negotiation with the mud." I nearly lost my Welly Bootuns to the deep bog more than once.

After a slightly sketchy river crossing where I used my tripod as a depth-gauge (and nearly took a swim), I reached the falls. Believe the hype. The roar of the water against the backdrop of a cloud-draped Buachaille Etive Mòr was simply stunning. I sat on the rocks, soaking up the natural energy. The feeling of disconnection from the world at large was quite liberating.

Gear Note: This was where I realised that my drone piloting skills are currently......let’s say "in development." Bob Mini got some footage, but I suspect he was judging me the whole time.

Stop 2: River Etive Waterfalls (The Hippo’s Paradise)

Next was the "honeypot" location down the Glen Etive road - a spot photographed by every "togger" and their pet hamster. However, standing there, you realise why. It’s a quintessential Highland scene Fortunately for me, there no crowds, and standing at the water's edge was breathtaking.

Pro Tip: If you see American tourists in white plimsolls heading into a mud pit that would make a hippo blush, it’s only polite to offer a warning. I gave them a "caring citizen" intervention, though I’m not sure if they appreciated the advice or the fact that I’d nabbed the last parking space!!!

Stop 3: River Coupall Waterfalls (The "Over-the-Top" Moment)

This was where the "Welly Bootuns" finally met their match. I was scrambling onto a rock islet for the perfect angle of the falls at the foot of the Buachaille, and whoosh - water straight over the top. I had wet feet for the rest of the day, and quite honestly, I didn't care one bit. The disconnection from the "real world" was total and utterly liberating.

* The Fleet Report: I got Bob Mini airborne, but I’ll be honest - my piloting skills are currently "decidedly average." I suspect Bob was judging me from 100 feet up. Ozzie Pop, however, handled the exposure like a pro.

Stop 4: The Tears of Glencoe & The Clachaig Sanctuary

By late afternoon, the light was turning harsh as I approached Loch Achtriochtan and the iconic Elliot’s Cottage. After a few shots of the "Tears," I decided to head to the Clachaig Inn.

If you’ve never been, the Clachaig is the spiritual home of Scottish mountaineering. It’s the kind of place where the walls are thick with history and the air is thick with the smell of drying wool and woodsmoke.

As I walked in, I spotted that infamous sign: "No Hawkers or Campbells" - a dry, enduring nod to the 1692 massacre just down the road. For a MacDonald descendant or just a weary traveller, it’s the ultimate sanctuary. I’d originally planned to head to Skye the next day, but after a quick chat with Ebony, I made a command decision:

I’m staying.

I booked a second night on the spot.

The Rewards of the Day

I finished the day in the Boots Bar - a glorious, child-free sanctuary.

• The Starter: MacSweens Haggis with a Scotch whiskey sauce that could cure any ailment and the most delicious Glencoe oatcakes.

• The Main: Highland Game Casserole (rabbit, venison, pheasant, mallard, partridge, and pigeon), served with a herby dumpling, mash potatoes and roasted vegetables. It was rich, earthy, and - as warned - contained a genuine piece of lead shot. Finding it made me inexplicably happy :-D

At 60 years old, I had to skip dessert to avoid the inevitable midnight acid indigestion, but a James Bond film and a comfortable bed at the Inn were the perfect ending. So I retired to my room, got my legs in bed, and watched "The Spy Who Loved Me" (the best 007 film, don't hate me) with a hot drink and a happy smile. I went to sleep with a calm mind, wet socks drying, and the knowledge that I didn't have to go anywhere tomorrow. No plans. No pressure. Just the way it should be.